Six programs cover 95% of the mortgages I close. Skim the summaries, then pick the one that sounds like you — or reach out and we'll figure it out together in fifteen minutes.
If you have decent credit and some savings, this is probably your loan. It's not glamorous — it's just consistently the best rate for most buyers. I close more conventional loans than any other type, for good reason.
Best for: buyers with 620+ credit, at least 3% down, stable income, and a debt-to-income ratio under 45%. Works for primary residences, second homes, and investment properties.
If your credit is still healing, or you don't have 20% saved, or you're a first-time buyer — start here. FHA is often the difference between "I can't qualify" and "welcome home." It's why the program exists.
Best for: first-time buyers, credit scores between 580–680, buyers with less than 10% saved, or anyone whose debt-to-income ratio would kill a conventional application.
You earned this — use it. VA loans are one of the best mortgage products in America, period. Zero down, no monthly mortgage insurance, and rates that beat most conventional loans. If you qualify, this is almost always your answer.
Best for: eligible veterans, active-duty service members, National Guard, Reservists, and surviving spouses. Also for any of the above buying a primary residence — even for the second, third, or fourth time.
The most underused loan in America. "Rural" is much broader than most people think — plenty of suburban neighborhoods qualify. If you're buying outside a major metro, always ask me to check USDA eligibility before defaulting to FHA.
Best for: moderate-income buyers in USDA-eligible zones (rural areas + many small towns and outer suburbs). Household income must be at or below 115% of area median.
When your loan needs to exceed $806,500 (in most areas), you're in jumbo territory. Rates are competitive with conventional, but underwriting is stricter and reserves matter. I structure these regularly for move-up buyers and investors.
Best for: buyers financing above the conforming loan limit (~$806K in most areas, higher in high-cost markets). Strong credit, low DTI, and cash reserves are the norm. Great for high-value primary homes, luxury second homes, and larger investment properties.
Refinancing only makes sense if the math works. I'll run your real break-even, factor in closing costs, and tell you honestly whether it's worth it. If rates drop meaningfully or you need to access equity, refi is a powerful tool. If they don't, I'll say so.
Best for: current homeowners who could benefit from a lower rate, want to pull cash out for renovations or debt consolidation, or want to eliminate PMI or move from an ARM to a fixed rate. Only if the numbers actually work.
If yours isn't here, call or text me at 863-695-2265 — I'll answer honestly, even if the honest answer is "I don't know yet, let me find out."
A lender's max qualification isn't the same as what you should spend. I use a "sleep-well-at-night" number — usually 25–28% of gross monthly income for housing — and back into a purchase price from there. That's the number you should shop with.
The bank's max might be 35–40% of your income, but that's the ceiling, not the target. We'll talk about your goals and your other financial priorities before I put a number on it.
No. It's a myth that's cost buyers years of appreciation. FHA needs 3.5%. Conventional starts at 3%. VA is $0. USDA is $0. If waiting to save 20% means missing the market for another two years, you're often worse off — even with PMI.
The right down payment depends on your full financial picture, not a general rule. Let's talk about yours.
The initial conversation and pre-qualification cause zero credit impact — I don't pull your credit until you're ready. When we do pull it, one mortgage inquiry drops your score by 2–5 points temporarily. If we shop with multiple lenders within a 14–45 day window, all those pulls count as a single inquiry.
Most of my purchase loans close in 21–30 days from full application. Refinances are usually 30–45 days. The biggest variable is how fast documents get returned. If you're organized, we can go faster.
The standard set: last 2 years of W-2s or tax returns, 2 most recent pay stubs, 2 months of bank statements, ID, and any info on other properties or debts. Self-employed? We'll need 2 years of business returns and a P&L.
I'll send you a personalized checklist after our first call — nothing extra you don't need.
Once you have an accepted offer, I usually recommend locking. Rate lock protects you if rates rise before closing. If rates drop meaningfully after lock, most of my programs have a one-time float-down option — I'll explain your specific options when we get there.
Trying to time the market on rates is like trying to time stocks. Don't.
In most cases, my compensation is paid by the lender at closing — there's no direct cost to you for my services. Any borrower-paid fees (appraisal, title, third-party services) get disclosed upfront in your Loan Estimate. No surprises, no hidden fees.
I'm licensed in 21 states plus the District of Columbia — Alabama, Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Delaware, DC, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Missouri, Nevada, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia, and West Virginia.
Not on the list? Ask anyway. Homespire is licensed in additional states, and I can often connect you with a licensed colleague.
That's what I'm here for. Fifteen minutes on the phone and I'll tell you exactly which loan fits your situation — and whether now's the right time to move.